A greener, slower way to discover local neighborhoods

Most tourists visiting Prague follow the same routes, focusing on the city center and the historic castle located on the left bank of the Vltava River. However, you can experience Prague in a completely different way – by discovering local places along the picturesque tram 23 route.

Tram 23 is the hidden gem of Prague’s public transportation system. The tram line starts in Vinohrady – the most beautiful Prague neighborhood- and winds through the city’s most charming parts. This option, although mostly overlooked by tourists, offers not only great scenic views but also a chance to experience local life. It would be a shame not to hop on it, especially since a day ticket covers both the tram and the metro.

Start in Vinohrady 

If you get off the tram at the Šumavská stop, you’ll arrive at Vinohrady – a picturesque neighborhood located to the east of the city center. Its name derives from vineyards that were here in the fourteenth century. Today, this district is well known for its beautiful architecture, elegant residences, and greenery. If you’re here during breakfast time and you’re craving a delicious coffee and some morning meal, visit Thiago’s spot, Kavárna Šlágr. It’s a unique café with an old-fashioned décor that transports you back in time, straight to the nostalgic era in Czech history.

If you seek a place to relax in the bosom of nature, you should definitely visit Grébovka – one of the largest parks in Prague, inspired by the Italian Renaissance. Inside, you’ll find a beautiful grotto and water cascades. Also, don’t forget to stop by Riegrovy Sady to admire the stunning city panorama.

Water cascadess in the centre of Prague
Grebovka. ©thiagorodrigueslima.
Lasrge park with a view in Prague
Grebovka. ©thiagorodrigueslima.
Lovely restaurant in an old vintage style.
Kavárna Nový Svět. © thiagorodrigueslima.

First stop: Nové Město 

When you hop off the tram at the Štěpánská tram stop, you’ll reach the Nové Město neighborhood. This lively area is famous for its tenement houses designed in Art Nouveau style. If you get hungry during sightseeing and you’ll crave some Czech dishes, visit U Šumavy. This traditional Czech restaurant serves beef goulash, smažený sýr (fried cheese), schnitzel and potato dumplings filled with smoked meat. Beer fans will also find something for themselves. The place offers a wide selection of beers, including traditional ones (Plzeň), award-winning craft breweries and its own house-brewed beers (Černokostelecký pivovár). For those interested in architecture and who appreciate interactive exhibitions, make sure to stop by CAMP. It’s a gallery devoted to city planning, which will probably change your perception of urban life.

Traditional local restaurant in prague O sumavy
Usumavy. © thiagorodrigueslima.
Inside of the museum, videos displayed CAMP
CAMP. © thiagorodrigueslima.

Discovering Malá Strana 

After arriving at Újezd tram stop, you’ll find yourself in a small neighbourhood, Malá Strana. Here you will find everything you need, from lovely streets and green parks to stunning views. If you’re a big fan of walking, definitely take a stroll along the Vltava River. It’s a perfect place to relax while admiring picturesque bridges and Old Town across the water. However, if you’re not an active person but still appreciate a nice view, head to Skautský Institut. It’s a great place to chill by the riverside with a coffee or a koláč, especially on a sunny afternoon. The place also offers various workshops and events, so if you want to get to know the local community, make sure to check it out!

Skautsky Institut.
Skautsky Institut. © thiagorodrigueslima.

Finishing at Hradčany 

The last tram stop, Brusnice, will take you to the most historic of Prague’s districts  – Hradčany. This area is well known for its historical sites, such as Prague Castle and its old architecture. However, there are still many undiscovered spots for tourists. One of them is Martina’s spot, Nový Svět, a hidden medieval gem. While here, take a stroll around picturesque little houses, small cafés, and art shops. After admiring the old streets, don’t forget to stop by the cozy coffee shop Kavárna Nový Svět and savor a delicious coffee with a lovely view from its terrace. Finally, if you want to commemorate this trip and you’re looking for a nice piece of jewelry, visit Dick Wolf. You’ll definitely find something for yourself there!

So, would you hop on Tram 23 and experience Prague like a local? For more unique city guides, check out Spotted By Locals.

Pragues neighborhood.
Novy Svet. © martinanappi.
Kavarna Novy Svet. © martinanappi.

Spotted by Locals is what travel content looks like when locals are in charge. Across 86 cities, 504 contributors share the places they love, without ads, without algorithms, and without a hidden agenda. Just the city, as it really is.