“I’ve got mountains in my backyard and sea the other way,” laughs Johan from his home in Provence. “It’s the best of both worlds.” The south of France is famous for its sunshine, picturesque countryside, historic towns, fine wines and cuisine. And of course, the chic French Riviera with its beautiful sandy beaches. No wonder summer brings so many tourists to the region known as Provence-Alpes-Côte d’Azur. But visiting off-season in Spring is more than the responsible option, it also unlocks the added upgrade of being able to enjoy the Mediterranean sunshine while skiing.“A lot of people don’t realize you can ski in the south of France,” says Johan du Toit. “I think they’re really missing out.”
Living an hour west of Nice, the region’s sun-soaked cultural capital, Johan is just an hour’s drive from many small ski stations like Audibergue, Le Seignus and La Foux d’Allos. “I ski most weekends,” he admits with a smile.“People ask if it’s easy,” Johan acknowledges. “And it is easy. You just rent a car and drive.” But you can even ski without a car, flying into Nice and taking the Zou Bus that carries skiers up into the mountains. “It takes day trippers to so many ski stations, making it all so accessible. But many tourists don’t know about it.”
And for Johan, it’s the off-season skiing that is most satisfying—from the end of February through March and into April. For skiers keen to maximize their slope time, this is when warmer weather brings uncertainty about snow conditions. But it’s also when prices fall significantly. Travel, accommodation and ski passes all become much more affordable off-peak.
“We’ve had friends visit on €50 Euro return flights,” Johan says. “Paying as little as €15 for an off-season ski pass.” And when you stop worrying about the cost of skiing, it opens exciting opportunities to do more than ski.
“In March and even April, there’s still good snow,” explains Johan. “But it doesn’t have to be ski, ski, ski.” Splitting your time between the slopes and exploring the beautiful Provence-Alpes-Côte d’Azur region without the crowds brings a wonderful balance to a holiday. “I’ve strolled the beach on a Saturday and then skied on Sunday,” he reveals. “Many ski stations offer cheap half-day passes which are perfect.” Such flexibility turns skiing into a holiday activity rather than the holiday itself.
Not being tied to the slopes frees you from the expensive ski resorts. Staying in a village below the snow line brings the advantage of bigger and better accommodation—a house rather than a hotel room. It also gives you more choice of where to ski. “There’s more than 60 ski stations in the Southern Alps,” says Johan. “You could visit a different one every day.” And this is responsible travel because many smaller ski stations, all owned by the village commune, are at financial risk. By skiing them, you’re supporting local communities for whom skiing is a way of life. And they have beautiful runs.
Skiing in the morning when the snow is usually best, you can enjoy the crisp air and sunshine on blissfully uncrowded slopes. “There’s barely anyone on the mountain,” says Johan. “It’s incredible skiing down a massively wide slope with no one else on it.” And the views are stunning because of the region’s spectacularly jagged landscape. “The scenery is wonderfully dramatic,” he reflects. “I’ve discovered a small ski station, Gréolières les Neiges, where you get to the top of the slope, and the blue of the Mediterranean Sea just opens up in front of you. It feels like you’re on top of the world.”
In the afternoon, you can take a break from skiing and explore the Provence-Alpes-Côte d’Azur countryside as it blooms back into life after winter. “Provence is as beautiful in the spring as it is in the summer,” confides Johan. “March is a wonderful time to be here.” You can explore the stunning Gorges du Verdon, Europe’s Grand Canyon, or hike through the hills to stunning freshwater lakes formed from the melting snows. “And the wineries are open,” adds Johan. “And the restaurants.” Shopping in Nice and dinner by the beach is an unusual but delightful end to a ski day.
With off-season tourism a great way to vacation responsibly, easing the pressure on summer-stretched infrastructure and spreading your Euros beyond peak times, Spring in the south of France is perfect. Because along with all the celebrated delights of this hugely popular destination, skiing can add extra value to your visit. “It really is the best of both worlds,” reflects Johan. “I love that.”
To see skiing videos from Johan, visit YouTube @skiodysseyfrance
