“When you live in a country as cold as Finland,” says Malk, who visits regularly, “you want somewhere warm to go. That’s sauna.” People visit Finland for its vast, pristine Nordic wilds made even more magical by the glow of the Northern Lights or Midnight Sun. And most tourists try a sauna. But Finnish sauna is more than a tourist attraction: a deeper appreciation of sauna unlocks the unexpected upgrade of getting to the very soul of Finland – which makes sauna the perfect way to live like a local.
“Finland has as many saunas as it has cars,” marvels Malk. An estimated 3.3 million saunas for a population of 5.5 million. “Almost all buildings have at least one sauna,” he explains. When you book a hotel or accommodation, it will likely describe its sauna facilities. “In terms of authenticity, they’re just part of everyday life,” considers Malk. “They are so embedded into the culture that simply by going to a sauna in Finland you are likely to be having an authentic Finnish sauna experience.”
Finland has many kinds of sauna, and all are authentic in their own way. As well as traditional wood-fired saunas, electric saunas are common. Both work by throwing water onto heated rocks to create steam. Perhaps the most traditional sauna is savu. “This is slightly different as it’s actually the smoke that heats it,” explains Malk. “But all are legitimate Finnish sauna experiences.” Among other traditional practices is vihta, gently hitting yourself with softened birch twigs to stimulate the circulation. “And of course there is avanto,” smiles Malk. “Literally hole in the ice.” You warm up in the sauna, then swim in a frozen lake and then warm back up in the sauna. “Definitely invigorating!”
But while in the US sauna is most associated with health and fitness, in Finland it’s very much a social activity. “Families go and have a sauna together,” explains Malk. “Friends go together. It’s very much a social thing.” While Finns can be reserved, “they love sauna because it’s where they feel more relaxed,” reflects Malk. “Where they can let go and open up a bit.” If you make close friendships in Finland, eventually you may be invited to sauna with them. “You feel you’ve been invited into the inner circle,” Malk admits.
But going to any sauna is a social experience. “It’s a place for relaxed conversation,” says Malk. But that doesn’t mean people talk all the time. “It’s fine to try and start a conversation. Pretty much everyone speaks English,” says Malk. But like anywhere, you’ve got to read the room. “If they talk back, great. But if the vibe isn’t for talking, relax and enjoy the experience in your own headspace.”
Being aware of the etiquette helps. “Mixed saunas are not generally naturist,” reassures Malk. “If it’s single sex, Finns tend not to wear anything. But they won’t mind if you’re in a swimsuit.” However, if you do go au naturelle, “take a towel to sit on!” smiles Malk. “Definitely shower before you go in.” And unlike other Scandinavian saunas, in Finland it’s acceptable to go in and out to cool down. “Just don’t linger in the doorway,” Malk advises. “It lets the heat out and they won’t like that.”
Because Finns like their sauna hot. “Ladling water onto the hot rocks creates the steam known as löyly,” Malk explains. “Löyly is both the steam and the sensation of inhaling it.” The steam makes it feel humid and hotter. “You can feel the perspiration. It’s a very pleasant heat,” he says. “You might get that aroma of pine, or scented oils like eucalyptus. And you feel your pores opening – it feels cleansing.”
To take the experience even further, you could stay in a mökki. “These are summer vacation cottages often by a lake,” explains Malk. “They’ll sauna, then swim in the lake, then go back in the sauna. Rinse and repeat,” laughs Malk. That’s very Finnish.
Indeed, you soon learn that sauna is not just embedded into everyday life: it’s embedded into Finnish culture. “In Finland’s mythology, I heard a story of a hero who has to cure the land of a terrible disease,” recounts Malk. “He goes into the sauna, and conducts a cleansing ritual that, by extension, cleanses the country.”
And then there’s Saunatonttu. “Saunas often have a ceramic gnome called a Saunatonttu,” says Malk. “This is the guardian spirit of the sauna.” Finns have cherished rituals around Saunatonttu including leaving little offerings. “Understanding this is a great way for visitors to connect with Finnish culture.” And if you’re looking to sauna like a local, remember the bottom step is generally for children and probably avoid the expensive sauna hats on sale. “I’ve never seen a Finn wear one!”
Finland has won ‘happiest country in the world’ eight years in a row. “However, happiness is more defined as contentment,” considers Malk. “Finnish people generally feel pretty comfortable.” Perhaps some of that is down to a lifestyle almost built around a relaxing sauna. “Sauna is in their mythology,” reflects Malk. “It’s in their DNA.” Appreciating this, you start to sauna like a local.
